Besides the fact that I am a big Shakespeare fan, I figured it would be nice to start my long trip in a place where it was a little smaller and quieter, so that I could ease in to the whole thing, adjust to the time zone, in a little more relaxed environment.
When I went to the Fodor's message board originally many months ago to get advice on my proposed itinerary, people said that even though Stratford-upon-avon is a smaller town, it is still really busy and touristy in the summer. Perhaps because of the recent flooding the week before we arrived in stratford, it wasn't nearly as busy as I expected. We had no trouble at all getting into restaurants, the walking tour we went on only had 8 people on it, the streets were busy but nothing at all even remotely annoying or clogged, shops were almost quiet, etc. it felt like being in a real working town where they just happened to have something that attracted some tourists. I think it was the right balance really.
Instead of a crowded, tacky, and touristy place, what I found was a small city that had mostly retained its historical charm - even starbucks was closed by 7pm or so when we walked by a couple times - and instead of being so in your face that you felt like they were taking advantage of those who come to experience shakespeare's hometown, you instead got the impression that they were proud of it. The locals we met were kind, helpful, and happy to be from Stratford-upon-avon. Putting the horrible exchange rate aside, I didn't find it to be that terribly expensive. We didn't spend more than 10 pounds on any meal and we ate perfectly well, in the oldest pub in town, a nice Italian/pizza restaurant, and of course fantastic fish and chips. Besides using a credit card to get the train tickets into and out of town, and charging the one lunch in chipping campden, we used cash everywhere, and including my half of the cost of the B&B, I spent just about 150 pounds - not bad for 3 days in an expensive country where the exchange rate sucks - $300 for a little over 3 days of time including a top-class B&B is pretty cheap, really. Sure if you went into a lot of the sites like the Shakespeare properties you would spend more money, but still, it is doable on a budget.
The unexpected side trip to Chipping Campden in the Cotswolds was quaint, charming, and enjoyable. Sure, the few hours we spent there were more than enough, but it was nice while we were there. The architecture, small size, grazing sheep and stunning views made for a really different and unique experience.
Are these the most exciting places in the world or even on my trip? No, but it was the perfect start and exactly what I was looking for. As I go on to bigger and more exciting places with better sights and better food, I think I will still be glad that I decided to begin my trip in the lovely Stratford-upon-Avon, and although I probably won't go back anytime soon, if ever, I thoroughly enjoyed the town and its people and all it had to offer.
1 comment:
aw [':
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